What, exactly, is a roadhouse? I’m sure they’ve been around before this, but my first memory is of the Patrick Swayze and Sam Elliot movie in the late ’80s. That place was rough around the edges, and with a butt kicking, Patrick whipped everyone into shaped and smoothed things out.

I would say the same is true for Logan’s Roadhouse right here in Bowling Green. When I visited almost two years ago, it was a chaotic dining experience. This is the first time I’ve been back since it re-opened 10 months ago. I asked our waiter about the history of the closing and re-opening (I had read about a fire without a clear cause), but he’d just moved from Texas and that was his third day at Logan’s.

The staff this time was attentive, genuine and accommodating. We were greeted and seated when we entered and given a warm goodbye when we left. Our waiter didn’t deliberately create a friendly rapport with witty banter, but he was present when we needed him, made changes when we asked and did engage when we welcomed him to town. Just like Patrick, come to think of it.

Our meal began with roadhouse ’shrooms. Seasoned, battered and fried, the flavor was effective on its own, and with the horseradish sauce, you got the “kick” roadhouses are famous for. The mushrooms held a lot of water, hot water since they’d been fried, so they were a little hard to eat. We found that if we cut them in half, the water drained out and the lack of water meant the flavors could shine through as well.

There were also peanuts in a bucket at the table and we were served dinner rolls right away, if appetizers aren’t your thing. The made-from-scratch yeast rolls were pliably tender, seasoned with oil on top and served with fresh, real whipped butter.

Haphazardly at first, then with a plan, each of us at the table ordered one of Logan’s Roadhouse specialties: ribs, a burger, steak and fish.

I had the half order of baby back ribs, which the menu claims are famous. Even though I didn’t see them in the movie, they were all the menu said they were. Tender, because they are slow roasted over eight hours after seasoning, then covered with barbecue sauce and grilled over an open flame. My side items were a perfect match for this rib feast (even with a half order I had some leftovers): fresh mashed potatoes (the rough kind of course, with the peel still on) and grilled, skewered vegetables that were delicious.

The mesquite grilled salmon was a big hit. Fork tender and served with my favorite salmon seasoning, fresh dill, in melted garlic butter sauce. The rib-eye steak was an effective comfort food for one of my dining companions. This is a cut of steak he has ordered all over town and gave this steak dinner a positive review.

The burgers are of the thick, large variety. The kind that Patrick can sink his teeth into and keep up those muscles that keep roadhouse rowdies in line. The pepperjack burger is served with barbecue sauce, pepperjack cheese and then topped with crispy onions.

The end of the meal was a special treat, because Logan’s is now serving desserts in a small roadhouse bucket (a mini version of the one the peanuts come in), and you can keep the bucket. Right now, it has a special on these desserts, so we ordered all three: chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream, strawberry cheesecake and nutter butter fudge slide with peanut butter and chocolate mousse. They were an appetizing, fun and eventful end to the meal.

The redesigned Logan’s Roadhouse here in Bowling Green turned out to be a unique, kick in the pants dining experience with the feeling of excitement coming from the menu, the staff and the atmosphere, although Patrick’s presence will be missed.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE

2920 Scottsville Road

• 846-2771

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Cuisine: American

Specialties: Steaks

Libation: Full bar

Smoking: Yes