Big sky expectations made Montana Grille a great place to celebrate a family member’s graduation this week.

With seven in our party, I called ahead to find out they don’t take reservations on the weekends. I thought we’d be in about 8 p.m. and the person on the phone assured me they slow down by that time. When we arrived, there were parties of 14 and 12 ahead of us. By some great miracle, however, the hostess seated us right away, which made me want to hug her, until the smell of smoke from a neighboring table wafted my way.

We had been seated in the smoking section without being asked. The hostess had made a decision in the moment and so did I. We stayed put. The place was packed with people at tables, at the bar and even in the walkways and the wait would be long.

The décor is pure big sky woods. A spacious log cabin with a river rock fireplace, deer antler chandeliers and iron carvings of wood animals.

The appetizer menu had nothing out of the ordinary, except maybe the Tillamook cheese spread with pico de gallo and tortilla chips. The southwestern quesadilla appetizer was unique, with a spice no one at the table could identity. Some thought basil, others cilantro, but the cheeses, spices and lightly pan-cooked tortilla was a tasteful combination.

Not having ordered salmon in a while, I dove in to the delicious description offered on the menu and was pleasantly surprised. One of my out-of-town graduation visitors had asked me earlier in the day how the seafood was in Bowling Green. I gave a &#8220so, so” answer, but gladly ate my words as I tasted the appetizing grilled salmon, fresh, cooked tender and served with an herb butter lightly melted over the fish. My side item, broccoli and cauliflower, was cooked well, but was extremely oversalted and inedible.

My dining companion ordered the Big Sky shrimp. I decided a few weeks ago I would refrain from saying a menu item was &#8220the best I’d ever had,” but the shrimp was, by far, the best I’ve ever had. The tempura was like spun gold, crispy and light, and seasoned so that the taste of the shrimp was dominant, yet the crunch of the tempura, enhancing. The garlic mashed potatoes were not the best I’ve ever had, but they were good.

We finished the meal with a celebratory piece of key lime pie when things went sour fast. The pie tasted like it had been made with limes that had dried out and gone bitter. I’m not sure how the pie was made, but each person took one bite and the rest of the pie sat in the middle of the table, uneaten.

Like most restaurants, Montana Grille has a variety of menu items, from steaks and seafood, to rotisserie chicken and ribs, as well as sandwiches, salads and pastas. I would categorize it as upscale dining, based on the atmosphere, the food quality and the prices.

The wait staff was excellent. It was a great combination of personal service, without too much time spent chatting at the table and most of her time making sure our needs were met in a timely manner, from our first drink order until the last plate was removed from the table.

It was a dinner of ease and delight so that we could enjoy the company of our graduate and her ever-expanding opportunity, as big as a Montana sky.

Montana Grille

740 Scottsville Road

Bowling Green

746-9746

Hours: Dinner: 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 3 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday; Lunch Pail open for casual dining from the deck entrance 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays.

Cuisine: American

Specialties: Steaks and seafood

Price range: Dinner $7.79 to $20.99

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: Yes