According to some restaurant employees I know, the recession has affected our restaurants in town. Business has slowed at the national chains, and sadly, our locally owned Mandolin Restaurant closed. It was in my top three favorites, so it’s especially sad when an otherwise excellent food establishment is forced to shut its doors.

With that in mind, I’d like to thank Ben, the server at Applebee’s. He was especially attentive during my meal for the review this week and clearly appreciative of our business.

If you’re detecting a somber mood, that’s how I felt the night my dining companions and I visited Applebee’s. I know that eating out is a luxury, but as I looked at each of us enjoying our food, I saw four completely different people enjoying a moment together, yet that catered to each as individuals. It was more than just a meal, which is what I think restaurants have become.

One of my dining companions ordered the ultimate appetizer plate as her dinner selection. It was ultimate. Ultimate food and ultimate fun. She was given three choices from a nine-choice appetizer menu. I think if it was me I’d have a hard time deciding. She ordered the dynamite shrimp, spinach and artichoke dip and two cheeseburger sliders. The shrimp was lightly breaded and sweet, yet tangy (as the menu noted). I’ve always liked Applebee’s artichoke dip because it’s heavy on the spinach flavor and I like that as the predominate flavor – then the cheese and rest. The cheeseburger sliders were new and exciting. Two small beef patties on mini-ciabatta bread with cheese, lettuce and grilled onions. Yum!

Not needing to eat on the lighter side, as I did, she thoroughly enjoyed (and finished with help from the rest of the table) this ultimate amount of food, which even got an “ahhhh” when it was served.

The restaurant catered to me, too. I was eating on the light side. I had a bowl of French onion soup and an Applebee’s side salad. Again, being so very attentive, Ben asked if I wanted them served at separately or together and having the soup first tricked my stomach into thinking I was actually having soup and a meal. The soup was a nice balance. A solid, but not too thick, layer of cheese that had to be broken into like frozen ice on a lake to get to the thin layer of bread and salty beef broth. The salad, too, was hearty mixed greens (not just iceberg lettuce, which actually has no nutrients at all), tomatoes and a few other veggies. I’ve always admired Applebee’s dressing choices and the honey balsamic vinaigrette delivered again on this night.

The heartiest eater at the table (who has been lifting weights since the first of the year so he can afford it) had the sirloin steak and chicken combination. He said the cut of meat was average, but the taste was good. I had a bite of the grilled, garlic herb chicken. The sauce was a delightful addition, but as my dining companion noted, it seemed as if the chicken had been pounded into tenderness and it affected the flavor as well. It wasn’t bad, just a little odd.

Finally at the table, a child. If eating out has become more than just eating for anyone, it’s kids. This 5-year-old was treated to a special glass of sweet tea, a corn dog and fries and a cute little child-sized sundae, all while coloring and gaming on his paper place mat! I know this has been around awhile, but it’s always a fun treat. I think I’ll start asking for the mat even if I don’t have children with me!

We finished the meal with an idea whose time has come (especially for those of use eating light): dessert shooters. Mini-desserts! We had a chocolate sundae, chocolate mousse with Oreo cookie and an apple caramel supreme. A lively, expressive dialogue broke out as we each shared our favorite and tried to figure out exactly what was in each shooter, which ended the meal with a true sweetness beyond the food.

So, if you have to eat anyway, and your budget can afford it, go out to eat and make it not just a meal but an adventure and dining companion bonding time. Applebee’s slogan right now is: “New year, new value,” so it’s a fine place to start.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

APPLEBEE’S RESTAURANT

2545 Scottsville Road

• 782-6981

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

Cuisine: American

Price range (dinner): $7.49 to $16.49

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: At bar only