inding a new restaurant to review can sometimes be tricky, but this week it presented itself with wild abandon. Colton’s Steakhouse and Grill in Glasgow is four months new, but the community seems to have welcomed it like an old friend.

Minutes after we sat down, the common clapping of a restaurant birthday celebration was under way, but wait, instead we were asked to shout “Happy Anniversary” to a couple celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary – now that’s reckless abandon!

Colton’s looks and acts like your typical rustic steakhouse, with a tin roof facade, wild Western decor, peanuts to eat and throw on the floor, and menu items with names like Whiskey River Bread pudding.

My dining companion and I began the Santa Fe eggrolls appetizer. The crispy, rolled and fried flour tortillas were packed full with chicken, corn, beans and other veggies and served with a spicy ranch dipping sauce. My dining companion wondered aloud why steakhouses tend to call these appetizers “eggrolls” when they are really just an overstuffed taquito, but while pondering, we had to admit they were some of the best Southwest-style eggrolls we’d ever had.

The wait staff was attentive and worked well together – our eggrolls were delivered by someone we had not met yet. Our waitress, however, promptly introduced herself and let us know she was busy, but would do her best to meet our needs. I never noticed a lapse. She also shared with us that this Colton’s is the only one in the state of Kentucky – so far.

For me, an efficient and knowledgeable wait staff makes all the difference. My expectation is not perfection, but something just west of perfection called realness and honesty. In this case, she let us know she was busy (but didn’t use it as an excuse) and when I asked if I could substitute tilapia on the ribs and catfish plate, she didn’t know, but took the time to promptly find out. I hope it wasn’t a burden, but if it was, she didn’t let it show.

It turned out the tilapia was the highlight of my dinner – a lightly seasoned batter, pan-seared to a dense, crispy and delicious coating over a flaky well season piece of fish. This was then drizzled with a light cream sauce and a few pieces of shrimp. The ribs were generous with a plentiful amount of tender meat on each rib. The rub seasoning was a little lacking for my taste, while the barbecue sauce then tipped the scales toward too much strength in flavor, but that was just my experience. I suggest trying them yourself if you’re a rib lover.

Now, if you love ribeye, which my dining companion ordered, then you’re bound to be pleased with this choice at Colton’s. The aged mesquite grilled steak fared well; even when cooked “well” the flavor was retained.

The sides and salads were also to our liking. Each was fresh, flavorful and the steamed veggies had that slight crunch that lets you know you’re getting the nutrients you need. My dining companion did come across a carrot so stringy it refused to be eaten; however, we didn’t let one bad carrot spoil a pleasurable meal.

The meal was so pleasing that we didn’t have enough room to try the whiskey bread pudding, just an abundance of high quality food at a fairly reasonable price. You’re bound to find something to your liking at Colton’s – steak, seafood, salads, pastas – like an old friend in a new light.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, call managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or e-mail malexieff@bgdailynews.com.