Beginning centuries ago, the Japanese discovered the process of packing fish in fermenting rice, and placing the concoction under a stone weight as means of preserving the fish. The weight and the fermentation eliminated toxins, and upon completion of the process, the rice would be discarded and the fish consumed. The process is not unique to Japan: The Swedes have their surstršmming, Icelanders have hakarl, the Thai and Vietnamese have fermented fish sauces called plaa raa and nuoc man, respectively, and the Yup’ik people of northern Alaska have tepa.

At some point in the 16th or 17th centuries the Japanese added vinegar to the rice and consumed it with the meal. The modern sushi we see in restaurants was invented in the 19th century in the city of Edo (now called Tokyo) as a quick meal for workers.

Speaking to that tradition, Shogun of Japan features an all-you-can-eat sushi special that’s great for a slow, sit-down meal with a few friends. If I’m there for dinner, I usually will eat from the main menu, but I find the Shogun sushi special absolutely perfect for lunch, which is what I’ll discuss here. It’s my favorite place to pass a casual lunch hour, munching on maki and nigiri and chatting with the sushi chefs. Some drink Japanese rice wine, called sake, with their sushi, but I much prefer a light lager if I’m not drinking water. The all-you-can-eat menu is a pared-down version of Shogun’s full menu, but there are more than enough high-quality items to satisfy any sushi-lover.

As is the custom with sushi, the fish at Shogun is always of the highest quality, using what is often referred to as “sushi-grade” fish. While this isn’t a governmental regulatory definition, sushi-grade fish is generally much fresher than fish from a grocery store. This translates into a cut that does not sit on the shelf as long and therefore is not “fishy” tasting or smelling, and has a lighter mouthfeel than grocery cuts.

In the United States, people tend to use the word “sushi” to refer to what in fact is a wide variety of preparations with different names. The most basic serving is a small mound of rice topped with a piece of fish, which is known as nigiri.

For the lunch special, the chef prepares each piece right in front of the customers. I like all the nigiri cuts, and am always impressed by the subtle flavors that go into the non-Americanized preparations. In particular, fresh octopus has a chewy quality, while the taste of surf clam reminds me of oceany salt water, although it isn’t at all fishy. For softness I prefer the salmon and the tuna cuts. The fatty tuna, especially, is rich in flavor and melts on the tongue. The tuna with garlic is an exquisite piece of nigiri with a full, rich garlic taste that perfectly balances the tuna. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, and the restaurant isn’t busy, just ask the chef to prepare whatever he thinks is best.

Maki sushi refers to the popular sushi rolls, in which a few different items such as vegetables and fish are placed on a mat of rice and seaweed and then rolled with the seaweed on the outside. In maki the seaweed is on the outside, while in uramaki the chef puts the rice on the outside with the seaweed spiraling inward. Diners are probably familiar with the set of six to eight slices that make up maki sushi. I like the eel, the sunset and the sunrise rolls, with the last two being Americanized sushi.

The chef (who in Japan spends up to 10 years learning the craft) can prepare many rolls as temaki, in which the same ingredients get rolled into a cone-like shape with the ingredients spilling out the large end. There are a few rolls at Shogun on the lunch special that I much prefer in this fashion, such as the crunchy shrimp and spicy tuna rolls. Again, ask the chef which ones might be good like that – some are and some are not.

There are a few cooked varieties of nigiri that are good for sushi beginners, especially the crab and shrimp. The eel is also cooked, and is quite good, but many people simply won’t eat eel, despite its long history as a standard American dish. Additionally, the California-style rolls that don’t have much fish, or include cooked fish along with sauce, avocado or other nontraditional items, will appeal to those averse to raw fish.

Let me say that I realize that not everyone likes what is popularly referred to as sushi. For some people, the idea of eating raw fish turns them off, and they won’t even try it. Others have tried it and can’t stand the texture, the mix of flavors, or the light seafood taste that can sometimes accompany the morsels. Some of this is because the sushi that many encounter comes from Kroger or a Chinese buffet. This is not fresh sushi and should in no way be regarded as typical of what one finds in a real sushi restaurant.

At the same time, modern workers tend to rush through their lunches, frequently at their desks, in order to get back to the grind of the day. But if you want to have a nice, relaxed lunch of high-quality food for a great price, stop by Shogun. It’s well worth it.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

SHOGUN OF JAPAN

1713 Scottsville Road

• 846-2600

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch, daily; Dinner begins at 4:30 p.m. daily

Cuisine: Japanese

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: Yes