This week I felt less like a restaurant reviewer and more like a delicacy detective. I say this because from the first bite of Bar-B-Que Junction’s pulled pork to the last bite of Mamaw Stratton’s banana pudding, I could taste subtle flavors that put each dish in a class of its own when it comes to barbecue.

Bar-B-Que Junction’s Russellville Road dinning room, full of booths and tables, is a tribute to the pioneer spirit. Walls are covered in murals that honor both pioneers trekking across the plains and the American Indians who lived here. The ordering station is a large chuck wagon complete with authentic wood wagon wheels with a myriad of hand-painted prairie grass and wild flowers surrounding them.

Of course, as far as the food goes, I could have asked about the flavors I tasted in each dish, but with a pioneer fortitude on my mind, I thought it would be more fun to try figure it out for myself. If I get something wrong, just let me say, the flavor of each dish was amazing no matter what it was. There wasn’t anything I would change – and that rarely happens.

I’ll begin with the ribs because I had been on a seven-mile, uphill hike the day before and developed a craving for ribs about five miles in. At the time I had no idea 24 hours later I would be eating some of the best ribs I’ve ever tasted. Slow-smoked ribs, chicken and pork using only hickory wood was the first detectable difference. The ribs come dry or glazed. I ordered glaze on the side, and thought I tasted a hint of sweet molasses or sorghum and the essence of a mystery spice (I want to say orange, but I’m not that brave).

From the pulled pork to the hash brown casserole, there was a foundation of quality ingredients. The meat on the ribs was abundant and tender, the pulled pork unfibrous and the chicken thick, full of butterlike meat that fell gently off the bone. I chose the mild sauce for the pulled pork. It was subtly sweet with a hint of chili pepper. There is also a spicy sauce if you’re looking for a bit of kick. The pork comes with buns, rolls or pancake-like corn bread that housed the pulled pork easily and appetizingly.

Side dishes include all your favorites. I ordered corn, hashbrown casserole and baked beans. The silver queen corn tasted as if it had been cut off the cob right before I arrived, then gently cooked so that it was still slightly firm and I thought I tasted a hint of pepper for seasoning. Delicious! If you like sweet corn, you may have to doctor it up to your liking, but for me it was perfect.

The hashbrown casserole was a solid mix of large grated potato match sticks with a hint of cheese with a little extra flavor that made me wonder if it may be a sharp cheddar. Bar-B-Que Junction also offers giant stuffed potatoes, so I imagine these are the same quality potatoes in the casserole. Yum.

The baked beans, slightly sweet, also seemed to have a hint of sweet onion and bell pepper for a unique, yet subtle blend of flavors.

Finally, there was Mamaw Stratton’s banana pudding. I could tell just by looking at it that it was different. The pudding filling had a whipped consistency, lighter color and there were too many vanilla wafers and banana slices to count. The whipped texture meant the vanilla wafers kept some crunch to them and made the flavor light and full of banana goodness. Banana smoothies in the winter and banana Popsicles in the summer are favorites of mine, so this was a mid-season treat for me.

Bar-B-Que Junction is a must try if you love barbecue. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised with everything – even the burgers or the veggie plate with three sides and bread. You can drive through on your way home for a family pack or let Bar-B-Que Junction cater your next event. Either way, bring your pioneer heart to Bar-B-Que Junction and enjoy!

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

BAR-B-QUE JUNCTION

2225 Russellville Road

• 783-8902

Hours: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday

Cuisine: American

Price range: $2.89 to $9.49

Specialties: Hickory

wood smoked meats

Libation situation: None

Smoking: No