There was something special about Sorrento Italian Restaurant in Glasgow that created an evening of unfolding stories, laughter and relaxing twilight dining one rain-filled night last week.

Perhaps it was the comforting, immaculate, congruent decor. Deep, rich, brick-colored walls coupled with deep brown valances and sheer drapes on the windows. White linens on every table, even the handful of enchantingly house semi-private booths, each within an arched wall. Each light fixture was beautiful and illuminated the room with so much more than just light. Very well done.

Or, perhaps it was because my dining companion and I noticed a quote on the menu right away that said: “In Italy a meal is a treasured time to relax.” This prompted my dining companion to tell me a story of a recent trip to Africa where, after two hours of waiting, her husband was told by the chef that he just couldn’t seem to catch a fish that day and would he rather order something else or wait for a fish to grace the hook!

The fish at Sorrento was definitely fresh, and we did allow time to relax, however, our evening seemed to clip by with two appetizers, two delicious entrees, two desserts and one waiter with two pleasing attributes: attentiveness and knowledge.

Right away we were offered a special appetizer, not even on the “specials” menu. Apparently this is a something the chef likes to do, whip up impromptu daily treats not on any menu and only offered until it is gone. What a fun concept that made me think he must really enjoy cooking, which shined throughout the meal.

So we began with “special” stuffed mussels and an order of bruschetta. For me, it’s a great sign when an Italian restaurant does bruschetta well – and this was done very well. Four large wedges of soft, fresh tasteful bread with a generous mound of tomatoes, garlic, basil, olive oil and a hint of mozzarella. The crust had a slight crunch and then the rest of the bite melted in to your mouth so that every flavor could be tasted at once. Yum.

The stuffed mussels were medium sized with equal portions of Italian seasoned stuffing to match the size of each mussel, offering equal flavors of seafood and seasonings.

For dinner, I ordered the grilled Chilean sea bass, while my dining companion had a special often offered, the Italian stallion. The Italian stallion is both meatballs and Italian sausage in a marinara sauce served over pasta. She ordered the meal sans the pasta and we had a big time with the waiter trying to figure out if it was the Italian or the stallion that was placed before her. We made up our minds about that; you can decide for yourself. Overall, the taste of her meal was good; however, the meatballs lacked some flavor and density she was hoping for.

My grilled Chilean sea bass was delicious. Ever so lightly encrusted with fresh herbs and parmesan cheese, it was especially appetizing with the lemon butter served with it.

Refreshingly, each meal was served with a salad. A salad that, to me, seemed out of place with the rest of this otherwise elegant meal. Even the dressings were plain. Again, not bad, just simplistic and seemingly out of place.

Definitely not simplistic and quite well-designed were the la dulces (dessert). A limoncello tiramisu, which at first sounded too far from tiramisu to be called that, convinced me it belongs on every Italian menu. It tasted like a cross between lemon meringue pie and a lemon square – tart and sweet in each bite as the lady fingers soaked up the lemon cello. My dining companion had an appetizing bowl of traditional Italian spumoni ice cream – a combination of chocolate and pistachio ice creams.

The entire meal was sincerely a treat from the reasonably priced house Pinot Noir and well mixed limoncello cocktail before dinner to the last bite of limoncello tiramisu with nothing sour in between and well worth a drive to Glasgow.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

SORRENTO ITALIAN RESTAURANT

607 Happy Valley Road, Glasgow

• (270) 834-8341

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday (extended hours for Easter)

Cuisine: Italian

Price range: $8.95 to $21.95

Specialties: Pasta, seafood, steak

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: No