It has been a while since I found a restaurant I considered a hidden gem. As I’ve said before in this column, we are so fortunate to have many fine eating establishments in Bowling Green and I thought I’d discovered them all, until my dining companion and I decided to try Albany’s Steak House this week.

It is an unassuming, almost non-descriptive space, with some Asian landscape artwork, portioned off sections like groups of cubicles (smoking section a little too close for my comfort) with simple chairs and Formica topped tables, as well as an unused, old menu board peering from behind a new wall-hanging.

It is precisely these modest qualities that made it a true “hidden” gem for me, tucked away on Campbell Lane catty-corner from Buckhead Square. Looking at the menu, there was a wide variety of unique meals, from steaks to sandwiches, salads to pastas, chicken and fish, many with intriguing descriptions. But could the kitchen deliver? Yes, they can!

My dining companion and I opted for appetizers we’d never heard of: broccoli nuggets and crab egg rolls. The broccoli bites were both unique and delicious. I had expected broccoli florets fried in tempura, but when I bit into it was more like broccoli casserole breaded and deep fried. What fun. The name “crab eggroll” was misleading to me and I had the thought that calling them Rangoon rolls might offer a better description to patrons. They were miniature eggrolls filled mainly with cream cheese, and just a hint of both crab and diced onions. Again, they were tasty, but more like crab Rangoon than an egg roll.

While looking over the menu, I spotted dishes like swordfish and salmon, lasagna and Santa Fe chicken with a tangy salsa. All sounded good, all so different! Then I saw a description for the country sandwich and had to give it a try.

It arrived so full of ingredients, I wasn’t sure if I’d ever get my mouth around it. The sandwich was layered with turkey, ham, two kinds of cheese, then topped with lettuce, tomato, pickles, red onion and bacon, all served on a distinctive honey wheat berry bread. I don’t know what “country” this sandwich is from, but it was out of this world. With honey mustard dipping sauce on the side, the flavors blended then popped!

I also ordered a cup of potato soup and enjoyed potatoes with peels cubed in a potato cream broth, with just a hint of cheese flavor piled high with grated cheddar cheese and green onions. It was different, so just be ready for those cubed, unpeeled potatoes cooked al dente.

My dining companion decided right away to try out the “steak house” name and ordered a ribeye. He enjoys his steaks well-done and while the parts that were well-done were to his liking, he couldn’t enjoy the still-pink portions. Now I know that many meat eaters and chefs alike feel that grilling a steak too long ruins the flavor, but in his experience a good steak will keep the flavor regardless, which Albany’s Steak House steak did.

So, I’ll get on my soap box a little here and be an advocate for those who like steaks well-done, saying to chefs, don’t take a well-done order personally (try ordering a well-done fillet in a fine restaurant, which he has done – it’s a shaming experience). Grilled to the brink of dryness is not a problem for “well-doners,” but having to send steaks back every time is tiring.

I’ll step down now and remind all of you reading this, what a great find Albany’s Steak House is. Everything we ordered met or exceeded our expectations, from the crispness of the lettuce leaves in the salad, to the broccoli nuggets (we decided we might have to try making ourselves, with a little more broccoli than cheese), to the honey mustard salad dressing and the flaky croissant that came with the meal. I surmise then, that you can order just about anything to your liking off this menu full of variety and you’ll end up with an enjoyable meal.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

ALBANY’S STEAK HOUSE

801 E. Campbell Lane, Bowling Green

• 783-8825

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday.

Cuisine: American

Price range: $7.99 to $14.20

Specialties: Steaks

Libation situation: None

Smoking: Yes