Have you noticed the days getting shorter? I noticed this one day last week and decided to go on one more out-of-town dining adventure, before I settle back into the plethora of comforting restaurants Bowling Green has to offer. After a friend’s singing performance in the historic, artistically emerging Five Points area, I ambled into Margot Caf/ and Bar in east Nashville.

Art begins indoors at Margot’s. Rich colors originate from the exposed brick on the entrance wall of this former service station. Warm predominate gold tones and brick reds with light wood and black accents created a cozy, European, country feel.

The menu is both inventive and inviting, featuring country French and Italian cuisine. My dining companion and I started with a first course that served both as an appetizer and a salad – a first for me. Zucchini ribbons with mint, pine nuts, lemon and extra virgin olive oil was a treat to the eye as well as the palate.

The zucchini was sliced thin, lengthwise, then draped onto the plate so that it actually looked like wide ribbon you might find on a wrapped gift. And what a gift they were. Chilled and lightly tossed with each ingredient, you could opt to get a sizable piece of mint and/or a pine nut for a rush of flavor, or just eat the zucchini with the lemon and EVOO for moderate flavor.

If you’ve read this column before, you know salmon is one of my favorite comfort foods, and the menu description made Margot’s salmon irresistible. Pan-roasted Coho salmon with haricots verts, artichokes, tomatoes and kalamata olive relish. Coho salmon is a valuable, pink, fleshy variety that was fork tender, moist and thick enough to support the variety of ingredients. Haricots vert are deliciously slender string beans. In the movie “A Mirror has Two Faces” the main character always tries to get the perfect bite – which I found myself doing with this dish. One of everything and I was in heaven.

My dining companion ordered the homemade fettuccine with grilled chicken, broccolini, parmesan, garlic and chiles. The fettuccine was of course fresh and thick, but the thick parmesan shavings were the eye-catching highlight of this dish served in a large, thick, white bowl. I used thick three times in this sentence, which also describes the flavor. Thick yet not one ingredient overwhelmed. All were balanced in appetizing accord.

Another first for me was that our wait staff served just one slice of bread at a time from a large basket. My dining companion described the foccacia as light as a cloud, so I had to give it a try. It was a wispy, weightless piece of bread with a thin silver lining of crust. I chose the crusty, sourdough variety. It was fine, but I must wholeheartedly recommend the foccacia.

Our final choice was a white cake with plum, cherry and ricotta gelato. This was an effective choice after such a flavor-filled meal. I say “effective” because while my palate didn’t get excited about this dessert, I had healthy respect for the idea and the execution. I think I might opt for anything chocolate on the dessert menu next time, since it is French cuisine.

This column would not be complete without mentioning the incredible number of French and Italian wines Margot’s has to offer. They range in price from $20 to $200, with a few half bottle offerings, as well as a diverse number of wines by the glass.

Margot Bar and Caf/ has seasonal menus. My guess is you’ll find something enticing and distinctive, while at the same time sensible and delicious, any day of the week. This variety is a welcomed treat as we go into the coolness of fall and an appreciation for the love of home in the winter!

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

MARGOT CAFE AND BAR

1017 Woodland St., Nashville

• (615) 227-4668

Hours: 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday; closed Mondays

Cuisine: French, Italian

Price range: $17 to $24

Specialties: Seasonal offerings

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: No