If you saw the animated film “Ratatouille” last summer, you caught a glimpse of a New York food critic. He was a critic who nitpicked about the smallest imperfection and who found great pleasure whenever he wrote a negative word.

I, on the other hand, am a restaurant reviewer living in the quaint community of Bowling Green. I’ve been asked to write about my experience when I visit a restaurant. I always prefer to have a good experience, but occasionally I don’t. I wrestle with the dilemma of what to do when a good restaurant seems to just have a bad night – hey, it can happen to any of us.

My answer is two-fold. First, I don’t just look at what happened, because stuff happens. I’m more interested in how the restaurant handles the mishap(s). Second, I think it gives the restaurant a chance to review its policies, procedures and methods. I know I appreciate feedback from those closest to me, that is, if it’s not too harsh.

Here goes. My dining companion and I entered Longhorn Steakhouse and immediately were uncomfortable. It turned out the air conditioning wasn’t working well – on one of the hottest days of the year – and we were seated in a stifling corner booth next to a table of 20 or so. We couldn’t breathe. After five minutes of not seeing our wait staff, I walked back up to the hostess (noticing a couple of pockets of cold air as I went) and asked to be seated in a specifically, semi-cool location. She was more than happy to allow me to sit wherever I wanted, and apologized that the air was to be fixed that coming Tuesday.

And this is exactly what I mean by how does the restaurant handle the mishap? At Longhorn, as the evening went on, they refreshingly just kept doing their best to meet our needs and made sure to either improve the experience or just wipe it from my memory. By that I mean, I ended up not even paying for my meal. In my mind this was admirable, because perfection cannot be guaranteed, but if I can count on someone to do the right thing when things go wrong, I want them on my team.

My dining companion and I started with the firecracker chicken wraps. These were an island of perfection in our evening. These crispy mini-wraps are flour tortillas stuffed with chicken and cheese. The cheese had a deliciously spicy kick to it and the avocado-lime dipping sauce was an effective and appetizing cool-down.

I was overjoyed to see my favorite steak with my favorite fish and couldn’t remember ever seeing them together on a menu before (just ask my dining companion, whom I ask to order steak to my seafood, then do a split). I also had the option of ordering a special favorite of mine – a summer salad of mozzarella and tomatoes.

Now here’s where things went really wrong. The salad never arrived, the filet came out without the fish, my dining companion was served his meal at the same time, and we were planning on seeing a movie after dinner. We talked amongst ourselves. What we wanted to do was get the salad, send the steak back and wait for the salmon and steak combo to come out together. However, we were splitting the salad, which would mean sending back his perfectly acceptable honey mustard chicken sandwich – which didn’t seem fair.

As we blankly stared at each other trying to decide what to do, a manager arrived. We decided to tell her all the facts and let her in on the decision-making process. She apologized and, knowing there wasn’t enough time for her to fully remedy the problem and for us to make the movie, she told us my meal would be comped.

After that, the salad was delivered right away. It was a delectable grouping of soft mozzarella, greens and grape tomatoes with a balsamic vinaigrette. The steak was tender and flavorful and the salmon, which arrived just before the check, was appetizingly marinated in bourbon and grilled fork tender.

In this column, I hope to remind you of all the great places there are to eat in Bowling Green and what you can expect in the way of food, service and experience. At Longhorn, you can expect a delicious meal with a large and unique number of menu choices, friendly service (calm within chaos sometimes), and even on a bad day you can count on the Longhorn staff to do the right thing – without even having to ask. That’s community spirit that goes a “long” way with me!

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE

2635 Scottsville Road

• 746-0055

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: American

Price range: $7.99 to $24.49

Specialties: Steaks

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: Yes