Raz’z mixes energy, international dishes
Published 12:00 am Thursday, June 5, 2008
To combine a New York City moment with Southern charm takes a smooth yet energetic style. This is exactly what you’ll find at Raz’z Bar and Grill in Smyrna, Tenn.
Yes, I ventured a little farther south for a day trip that won’t only take you into another state but another country and even another world. Nigerian-born chef Raz Admosu embodies all of the above, plus energy, charm and a smooth presence that is reflected in the menu, food and atmosphere.
I heard that a jazz duet was playing on the patio at Raz’z, so I ventured down for a vacation-like evening just an hour away. After a couple of hours with Monet, Van Gogh and Picasso at the Frist Center for the Visual Arts in Nashville, I drove that extra 20 minutes to Smyrna and found myself welcomed through a city-like revolving door by a wait staff that was not just friendly but animated. There is also a Raz’z location in Nashville, but the jazz drew me the extra mile.
I was seated on the patio and enjoyed a glass of pino grigio as I waited for the rest of my party to arrive. I also ordered an appetizer called sticks and straws. This was julienned zucchini and thin onion rounds that were breaded so lightly, yet crispy, that the flour had to be the consistency of powdery pollen from a spring flower. It was served with a tasteful Cajun dipping sauce. The menu noted it was a generous portion, which was true. My dining companions arrived just in time to finish the last of it because I could not.
It took all of us awhile to order, partly because the menu has so many unique items and partially because by this time the jazz duet had started to play. With a billowing cloud bank in the distance and the soothing sounds of a saxophone, guitar and vocals right next to us, we were lulled into a Saturday night dream of an evening.
The special that night was a mahi-mahi, and even though I usually ask dining companions to order a variety of foods so I can report on the variety of flavors, that night only two dishes were represented – the mahi-mahi and the chicken teriyaki. Plus the desserts, this was enough to get a feel for the smooth, yet delicious flavors chef Raz has created.
And if it isn’t enough to create all this, chef Raz walked the restaurant every hour or so greeting each new patron, inquiring about their food experience and thanking each person for attending. He was so gracious and sincere in his appreciation, I felt as if I was attending an exclusive party I had been invited to, not just a restaurant I happened upon.
The mahi-mahi was two thinly sliced, grilled pieces of fish lightly dusted with Cajun seasonings. This sounds run of the mill, as far as fish goes, but because it was thinly sliced, the balance between the flavor of the fish and the seasoning was excellent. Normally sliced this thin, the fish might be dry, but it wasn’t, and the moistness added to the level of enjoyment.
The chicken teriyaki was also two moist chicken breasts, thick and flavorful with a generous portion of gravy-consistency teriyaki and two thick pineapple wedges for an added kick in flavor.
All entrees were served with a generous side salad (house or Caesar) as well as a side item, most of which were on the “country” side, like sweet potato casserole, baked apples, mixed vegetables and the like. With dinner I enjoyed a glass of Raz’z own bottled Chardonnay, and it was one of the best I’ve had.
Then it was time for dessert. Not since mud pie at the Chart House Restaurant chain in California have I had a dessert that people would travel miles to enjoy. This was an ice cream pie called Akin pie, named after Raz’s son. It was a dark cookie crust with two kinds of ice cream (at least one was chocolate) with a crunchy, delicious toffee topping that was also inside one layer of the pie. The pie is then frozen solid, making it just that much sweeter and hard to melt even in heat!
So if you’re not able to drive or fly to far-off lands this summer, you can make it to Nashville for a little international cuisine (as well as pastas, burgers, salads and seafood) with the coolness of a Nigerian smile and the charm of Southern moments.
— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.
RAZ’Z BAR AND GRILL
408 Sam Ridley Parkway, Smyrna , TN
(615) 220-9381
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Cuisine: International
Price range: $7.50 to $23
Specialties: Cajun
Libation situation: Full bar
Smoking: No