I was fortunate recently to enjoy a celebratory Sunday night at Red Lobster. Many local fine dining establishments are closed on Sundays, and since this was the only day we could all meet for a birthday, I was grateful Red Lobster was so accommodating.

Accommodating, too, was the atmosphere. It was a festive evening, yet we had the good fortune of getting into one of those huge booths in the back, which felt as if we were a party unto ourselves. This was a treat since I haven’t seen those booths making their way into restaurants lately.

Red Lobster, of course, is a seafood haven, yet it also offers a variety of steaks, pastas and some appetizers that are either cleverly disguised or lack the taste of seafood. We ordered a combination platter of southwestern lobster egg rolls and lobster, crab and seafood stuffed mushrooms. Even though they were smothered in cheese, the mushrooms definitely had the texture and flavor combinations that seafood lovers would be drawn to. The southwestern lobster stuffed egg rolls, however, were just the opposite with black beans, corn, tomatoes and a hint of seafood taste all wrapped in an egg roll shell and fried lightly crispy.

Our server was fun and jovial and the rest of the wait staff worked well together – tag-teaming our order and other needs as the night went on. This made for a very pleasant dining experience, especially since I was with a lively group that didn’t need a lot of attention, just service.

We each had our own special drinks for the evening and were impressed with what Red Lobster had to offer and what we were served. From an apple-tini for the birthday girl to imported beer on tap to a stellar Long Island ice tea and a bottle of Pino Grigio, we were treated as if we were dining royalty.

I guess it’s about high time (or should I say high “tide”) to get to the food, which was good, but not as impressive as some of our locally owned fine dining establishments. This would be fine, if the prices were also lower, but they were not.

I had a fine New York steak and was fortunate enough to be able to substitute the lobster tail for tilapia in a bag, which was a Bowling Green special. It was served with my choice of side item and a vegetable. My particular meal was acceptable. The steak cut was tender and grilled well, the fish seasoned well for the moist benefits when cooked in a bag. The vegetables were a little over-cooked for my taste.

Also ordered at the table were combinations that included plates of chicken, salmon and seafood. The literally dozens of choice combinations are a big part of the dining options at Red Lobster and those who ordered them felt the meal was enhanced by a spicy dipping sauce they ordered separately on the side.

Others at the table did not enjoy their meals as much. The fried shrimp, calamari and scallops were average in size, preparation and flavor – nothing to write home about. The “jumbo” shrimp scampi platter looked similar to the regular shrimp combination, so I didn’t see the advantage in going big. The comment was, “without all extras like the salad, sides and the Cheddar Bay biscuits, I might have been disappointed.” Maybe that’s the point – it’s all the extras that Red Lobster has to offer that make the difference.

The staff warned us about their singing abilities, but we all engaged in a lively round of “Happy Birthday,” accompanied by at least one professional level singer at the table – so all ended well. And if that wasn’t enough, any off-key voices were long forgotten once we were served the New York cheesecake covered with strawberries that was a perfectly thick, rich, yet not-too-sweet dessert we all could share.

So if you’re looking for a day or evening, especially on Sunday, of fun and fish, I would recommend Red Lobster for the extras and the variety of options that make dining an individual treat.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdaily

news.com.

RED LOBSTER

2525 Scottsville Road

• 782-9500

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Cuisine: American

Price range: $10.50 to $28.99

Specialties: Seafood

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: No