t was a sunny Sunday afternoon and my dining companion and I were in the mood for Japanese food. Ichiban came to mind, because, as far as my memory serves me, it’s the only Japanese food in town with patio dining. We arrived to find we weren’t the only ones with this idea and a group of very verbal Sunday travelers on the patio prompted us to eat indoors.

Ichiban has been in Bowling Green for close to two years now and the cuisine, variety, service, value and just down-right fun remain consistent after all this time. The long strip of dining area inside the patio window means you can still enjoy the great outdoors if the blinds are open, yet also means the acoustics get chaotic and noisy with even just a dozen or so tables occupied.

Not to worry though, if you can handle a little noise, the food is definitely worth it. My dining companion and I ordered the gamut after our complimentary clear broth soup with mushrooms and onions arrived. This included an egg roll for each of us, a crunchy shrimp roll for me and a veggie roll with a soy paper wrap for him, and a salad, tempura combo, chicken bowl and chicken lo mein to share.

I didn’t see much of the chicken bowl (one of his favorite values at only $3.80), which is chicken on top of fried rice and carrots in a bowl served with a creamy light ginger sauce. All entrees are served with this signature sauce, as well as fried rice and carrots that are steamed just to the point of flavor enhancement. Later in the meal we discovered, by observing a nearby table, that you can order these delicious carrots by the bowl as well.

The eggrolls, filled with a veggie and meat combination, were appetizing and generous in time. The chicken lo mein was enhanced by the perfectly grilled chicken and noodles tossed with vegetables and a light oil for flavor.

The tempura combo was my least favorite, partially because it was served with onions as the only vegetable, but mainly because the tempura overwhelmed the meat or vegetables and was on the greasy side for my taste. I like a light tempura, not heavy tempura. My dining companion, however, favored the amount of tempura batter Ichiban had prepared.

Our final fare was the sushi. We learned that those of you, like my dining companion, who strongly prefer sushi without the fish taste can order only veggies in the middle of a sushi roll, and substitute soy paper for the seaweed. This all but eliminates any fish flavor. I will say, over the years, my dining companion has been quite a trouper, trying eel, octopus and trying over and over the sushi seaweed despite his dislike for fish. So here’s a new culinary avenue for those who would like to try sushi, but have shied away due to the fish. Make sure to try the pickled ginger and wasabi that sushi is always served with, but beware of a little something I like to call wasabi wars.

Wasabi, as I’ve reported in this column before, is served with sushi and has a horseradish quality. You can mix the amount, to your liking, with soy sauce in the Japanese bowl, stir with chopsticks, then dip a slice of roll into the mixture. The sauce mixture is not hot, as spicy food is, but a punch of intensity rolls through your mouth and sinuses, depending on the amount of wasabi you choose. My dining companion and I had a grand time, with each other, the staff and those around us, challenging each other to more and more wasabi, not just mixed in the soy sauce, but spread on each roll. It was a wild ride that led to some intense moments of deliciously cross cultural entertainment.

So Ichiban turned out to be a lot of fun, out of the sun, on a Sunday afternoon, thanks to an informed, expedient staff (the sushi arrived faster than any I’ve ever had) and a variety of flavors at an excellent value.

— Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com.

Hours: 11 a.m to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Japanese

Price range: $3.00 to $11.99

Specialties: Steak, seafood, sushi

Libation situation: Beer, wine

Smoking: Yes