This week would have been a good week to begin my review with a catchy Spanish phrase. But since I don’t know any Spanish, you’ll have to take my word for it that Del Rio Tex Mex Grill is about as authentically Tex-Mex that can be found in Bowling Green.

The authenticity ranges from the outstanding fresh guacamole and queso to the Spanish-speaking wait staff and patrons, all the way down to the flies that buzzed around us on one of the hottest days of the year. The question here is: Can authenticity go too far?

Tex-Mex is a regional cuisine that combines the beef of the south Texas ranching culture with the spice and variety of Mexican food. Colorful ingredients like maize, chili peppers and avocados are a combination of foods from the pre-Hispanic Aztec and Mayans, coupled with the Spanish colonists.

The meal began innocently enough with the queso and guacamole that I ordered to go with our complimentary chips and salsa. Queso is melted cheese dip, which can’t go too wrong no matter how you melt it. The salsa was authentically appealing. Medium in both consistency and spiciness, it was pleasing to the eye. A deep red color containing pureed tomatoes, onions, peppers and spices.

The guacamole is reason in and of itself to visit Del Rio. Fresh chunks of avocado are combined with mashed avocado and just a hint of finely chopped onion and tomato enhancing the taste. Overall, though, the avocado played the predominate role. This is an expensive, yet appetizingly authentic, way to serve guacamole.

As we waited for a third dining companion to arrive, I glanced around at the Mexican village mural on the adobe painted wall, the sculptured bull head in front of a poster of the bull’s body, and the banners of Tecate beer streamed over the pool table, buffet and throughout the nearby smoking section. I was reminded of a little restaurant I visited in Juarez, Mexico, last year. For me this was the right amount of authenticity to bring back fond memories, but may be a bit too much if smoke, noise and a chaotic looking and sounding environment negatively affect your appetite.

I meandered over to see if the buffet was worth trying. There was a taco bar, two kinds of enchiladas, taquitos and other Tex-Mex favorites including rice and beans, as well as a few desserts. However, it was a small sampling that looked like it had been there for awhile.

As an alternative, my dining companion ordered a sample plate that included a chalupa, a chile relleno, an enchilada, a taco and a tamale. This is where it gets authentic again. A predominate aspect of Tex-Mex is the heavy use of meat with corn or flour tortillas. Each of the dishes on the sample plate included much of the same tastes: some type of corn tortilla or corn meal with ground beef. As he ate, he felt as if, instead of ordering a sampling, he ordered the same dish six times. This was disappointing.

As a tribute to authenticity, I ordered a fish dish. I don’t usually consider ordering fish at a Mexican restaurant, but after giving it some thought I realized that Mexico is surrounded by water and many of the cities are seaside. Perhaps the cuisine might lend itself to some unique flavors I don’t usually associate with fish.

I was right. The pescado ae la veracruzana was a combination of tomatoes, green olives and chiles with a hint of basil. I’m assuming this is unique to Tex-Mex as the basil and green olives added an appetizing zing I had not expected.

Also, the wait staff was so patient and graceful as I attempted to pronounce the dish by “authentically” rolling my rrrrr’s with flair. She rewarded me with a very gracious: “Very good. ..” then pronounced it correctly.

Del Rio Tex Mex Grill was a learning experience and a fun way to have spent an over-the-edge, authentic, Tex-Mex Sunday afternoon.

Del Rio Tex Mex Grill

1620 Scottsville Road

393-0103

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Specialties: Tex-Mex buffet

Cuisine: Tex-Mex

Price range for dinner: $5.99 to $11.99

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: Yes