What a difference a year makes. Or not. It was one year ago that I wrote my first restaurant review, so this week I went back to the scene of the crime: Smokey Bones. Last year, tennis player Andre Aggasi had just retired and I watched his last matches on the big screen at Smokey Bones eating a large plate of barbecue chicken nachos. This year I decided to see how much, if anything, had changed at Smokey Bones.

I looked over the menu and didn’t see anything new. Then I had to decide. What would I eat? My dining companion and I discussed all options. Smokey Bones is technically a barbecue restaurant – albeit a streamlined franchise that is a far cry from the traditional, hometown ques that exist all over Kentucky, several that I’ve reviewed over the last year. So, we decided, how far from que can you get at Smokey Bones?

As far as appetizers goes, you can get far. None of the appetizers would be found at a traditional barbecue, including artichoke dip, black bean quesadilla and potato skins. So I went with a favorite and probably the closest to que – the barbecue chicken nachos. The name is self explanatory. Corn chips on the bottom, a layer of grilled chicken smothered in barbecue sauce, green onions, tomatoes, black olives, cheese and jalapaneo peppers with sour cream and salsa on the side. To really go que, you can smother the nachos with some of the barbecue sauce Smokey Bones offers on each table.

My dining companion ordered a far cry from barbecue and opted for the sierra chicken – the same dish he had last year. It was different, better, improved and he noted it remains his No. 1 favorite dish in Bowling Green. The chicken is still two breasts grilled fork tender. The salsa on top has changed. Instead of being diced, the cucumber salsa now has large halved and sliced cucumbers with a generous amount of dried cranberries, sunflower seeds and cilantro. Truly a well-balanced, well thought out, unique flavor combination for an appetizing late summer lunch. A disappointing change was that the flat bread served last year has morphed into a thick garlic bread that weighted down the rest of the meal, especially since my dining companion chose broccoli as his side dish.

Something that also changed – not for better or worse – just different, was the service. The staff was overtly friendly last year, so much so that we ended up getting to know the wait staff quickly on trips to watch the U.S. Open. On this year’s trip, however, our witty banter was only slightly reciprocated by the first person who took our drink order, but alas he was not our waiter – just the warm up. Our waitress was less inclined to engage. She took our order promptly, refilled our drinks and brought the food out in a timely manner, yet she stayed matter-a-fact in her approach. This also differs from most hometown barbecues. I have found hometown barbecues to be quite friendly and keenly imaginative in the wit department.

For my far-from-barbecue dish, I ordered the beer-battered fish and I don’t think I’ve seen pulled salmon or trout ribs served on a traditional barbecue menu. It was, as the menu noted, lightly battered with five generous pieces of fish, served with a unique, chunky tarter sauce. Smokey Bones offers premium sides, in addition to its regular sides, and I chose asparagus.

Except for the fresh steamed broccoli, most of its sides are sides you could get from a traditional barbecue, like creamy cole slaw, baked beans, fries and cinnamon apples.

So how to end this trip down memory lane? With gratitude for the many dining experiences etched on my brain and my palate, good, bad, indifferent and that each has its own value – as do the many more to come. And, if you have any suggestions for something new, different or something I haven’t done, feel free to help me down the road ahead as I leave Smokey Bones behind, with the recommendation that you visit because you can satisfy your que craving or go off in several different appetizing directions.

– New restaurants are given an six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff

@bgdailynews.com.

Smokey Bones

2450 Scottsville Road

Bowling Green, KY

782-1888

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Specialties: Ribs

Cuisine: Barbecue

Price range for dinner: $9.49 to $17.99

Libation situation: Full bar

Smoking: Yes