Bowling Green is lucky to have a lot of fine restaurants clustered near the downtown. EVO is another incarnation of an old house made into an attractive and impressive fine-dining establishment, and is this week’s stop on our food excursion.

The walkway is lighted with torches and the effect is pleasant, warm and inviting.

We were promptly greeted and seated and given a simple, one sheet menu. If you’ve been indoctrinated by the chain restaurants to expect a giant multipage plastic menu with dozens of photos and dozens of meal choices, don’t be put off by the simplicity of EVO’s menu. The waiter explained they had additional appetizers, entrees and desserts not on the menu and he would explain each when the time was right.

After we listened to the appetizer specials not on the menu, of course we ordered off the menu. Our server patiently took our order for stuffed majool dates. Majool dates, if you are unfamiliar with them like I was, are large dates from Morocco. If you’re a fan of food presentation, as I am, you will love EVO. Picture this: a larger than normal dinner plate with four dates around the edge and in the center, spinach, a couple rings of raw onion and a couple of cherry tomatoes. The whole appetizer would have fit in a coffee cup, but it sure wouldn’t look as dramatic.

I’ve discovered writing about different restaurants that I like a variety of foods. And during this meal, I discovered that I don’t like stuffed dates. However, my dinner partner raved about the flavor and had no problem eating the other three dates. Each date was stuffed with a mixture of cream cheese, bleu cheese and walnuts and was wrapped with prosciutto, a thin slice of ham.

The next step in our EVO journey was a very nice Greek salad that didn’t overwhelm my taste buds, but provided a nice addition to what was to come next.

There were many choices, both on and off the menu, that all sounded very good and slightly exotic. The menu listed a filet of the day, and the server did such a great job of explaining how tender this Australian beef cut of meat would be that I decided this was my night for steak. My sidekick chose veal Marsala.

Wow, were we in for a treat. Again, visualize this presentation of the filet, which as you know is a round, thick cut of beef. The plate it was sitting on had to be 14 inches across, and the filet was right in the middle. It was accompanied by fingerling potatoes.

According to Garden Gate magazine, fingerlings are named for their long, thin shape and primarily smaller size. They were used whole as tiny, tender additions to the steak. Asparagus tips and blanched carrots complemented this wonderful piece of meat, and made for a very impressive presentation. The meat was unusually tender. I don’t know how they grade Australian beef, but this was the best cut of beef I’ve experienced.

The veal Marsala was just as rewarding and equally flavorful. Tender chunks of veal were served on mashed, garlic potatoes. The vegetables on the side were asparagus and blanched carrots.

It just kept getting better as we broke one of our informal guidelines and had both an appetizer and dessert. Usually it’s one or the other. The choice of dessert specials was outstanding, including 12-layer chocolate cake, 12 layer carrot cake, tiramisu and individual-sizes chocolate bundt cakes with a raspberry filling. I couldn’t decide between the chocolate or carrot cake, so I told the server to flip a coin for me and bring out the winner. It was chocolate. Six layers of cake and six layers of chocolate icing. It and the bundt cake were both winners.

Upon leaving, we met the chef, who explained that he had been at EVO for just a month. This ordinarily would disqualify the restaurant from our notice because we like to give a new place eight weeks to work out the kinks.

However, in this case, I would say that if you have tried EVO in the past, you need to take a culinary trek there again – there were no kinks in the atmosphere, service or the food.

EVO Restaurant and Wine Bar

1129 College St. • 270-780-5530

Hours: Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday, brunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Libation Situation: Full bar, extensive wine list.

Smoking: yes

Price range: $11.95 to $39

– New restaurants are given an eight-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com.