Restaurant review
Published 12:00 am Thursday, September 25, 2003
Asterix is a hugely popular comic strip in Europe, but at Bowling Greens Asterix restaurant, its clear there is no kidding around when it comes to food. Located at the front of a transformed office complex, Asterix is certainly nothing to look at from the outside, and isnt that much better once you get inside. A hodge-podge of tables and chairs assault your vision, and the medium blue walls and blacklights making white plastic tablecloths glow is a little too techno for me. At least the chairs at each table match. But if the tablecloths are a mix between patterned and white, then why not mix up the chairs too and get a full eclectic effect?When it comes to the menu, there is nothing eclectic about it its full-blown Bosnian fare. However, there needs to be a little adaptation by the restaurant to American tastes and expectations. First, learn how to make iced tea. Then get a soft drink dispenser. The only iced tea and soft drinks available were in cans, and the menu clearly states no refills. I think its written somewhere in the restaurant bill of rights that all Americans eating in a non-fast-food restaurant shall be entitled to bottomless non-alcoholic drinks. Our server was of European descent and when she came to our table, she walked like she was on a fashion runway. Her approach was an entrance not too slow, not too fast, but with a style that indicated in a friendly way, I am here to take care of you. Not to worry, I am in charge. She volunteered to help us interpret the menu, but since everything is translated to English, we didnt have a problem. I felt the prices of the appetizers were too high ($6.99 and $7.49) for seemingly ordinary appetizer choices: cold cuts, fried mozzarella sticks, fried mushrooms or six grilled jumbo shrimp. So I skipped the appetizer and opted for the tarhana soup. Described on the menu as tomato soup with grated dough, I expected a red creamy soup. Boy, was I wrong! What I got was a truly outstanding soup that had no resemblance to my expectations. Tarhana is a product prepared by mixing wheat flour, yogurt, yeast and spices, followed by fermentation for several days and drying. The soup is a splendid, delicious salty broth with tiny dough balls a combination packed full of flavor. For dinner we ordered skampi sa grilla (six shrimp with rice) and teletina sa gljivama sa pireom ili pomfritom (veal steak in mushroom gravy with mashed potatoes or french fries.)When the shrimp arrived, it was the prettiest presentation of shrimp and rice that we have encountered in this area. The oval platter had a bed of rice with three jumbo (three-bite) shrimp on skewers along each side, each topped with a half slice of lemon. In the middle of the plate, the rice was slightly mounded to provide an interesting contrast. The grilled shrimp were bursting with flavor, as was the rice. Unfortunately for us, our server remember, she is in charge was reluctant to reveal any ingredients, referring to them as secret. Would you argue with a blonde eastern European woman over herbs and spices? Me neither. The rice was the best I have ever eaten. We tried to guess the ingredients, but it was hopeless. The veal steak with mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy was a great meat and potatoes meal. With the homemade round-loaf bread to sop up the gravy, it was a hearty, fulfilling meal. The dessert menu was somewhat limited, offering only ice cream, fruit salad or tiramisu. But the tiramisu was worthy. On either side of the wedge of cake were puffs of whipping cream, one topped with chocolate sauce, the other with cherry sauce. One Web site I visited described tiramisu as heaven in your mouth. Yes, thats about right. By the way, Asterix the comic strip can be seen online at www.asterix.com a very well-done Web site that is suitable for youngsters. The reviewer is employed at the Daily News. He/she pays for his/her meals and his/her gym fees to maintain his/her figure. New restaurants are given an eight-week grace period before being reviewed. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235.