Its nice to see a person apparently make a successful comeback. You havent read about this restaurant in this column before, but you may have read about the chef, Dominic Tedesco, former owner of Tedescos, in an earlier column. Luckily for Italian food lovers, he is enjoying a renaissance in the kitchen, preparing delicious dishes at The Sicilian. Finding the restaurant can be a little daunting its located inside the Rodeway Inn, and the restaurant sign is small. Look for the Rodeway Inn, its much easier to find. However, the motel is in desperate need of a total exterior renovation, so dont judge the book by the cover. Entering the restaurant, I had the impression that a low-budget makeover was done to give the restaurant an Italian feel. Hopefully the decorations are a work in progress and will get better they are not quite there yet. So if youre looking for atmosphere, there are better places. If youre looking for great Italian food, The Silician will do very well. We were greeted by a charming young woman who, it turns out, immigrated here with her parents from Yugoslavia seven years ago. She was a delight and made our evening enjoyable. Our server, on the other hand, told us this was her second day and therefore didnt know what to recommend. After some prodding, she did say shed noticed that most people who ordered lasagna either cleaned up their plate or asked for a to-go box. We started with a great appetizer deep-fried black olives stuffed with cheese. Six large olives were served in a large, leopard-print martini glass, complete with two skewered green olives that you would find a martini. It arrived with a few slices of bread and olive oil with balsamic vinegar on a plate for dipping the bread. An excellent way to start your Italian meal. The Sicilian has a nice wine list and will serve wine by the glass. However, our water came in pale blue plastic tumblers with Pepsi logos. Its the little things that make the difference paying attention to details that make an ordinary dining experience something enjoyable. Please, ditch the Pepsi tumblers and spring for glassware for water. For our main course we chose pollo en casa de amore chicken in the house of love and chicken parmesan. The dish is boneless chicken wrapped in a light pastry crust and served on a bed of fetuccine with a pesto sauce, fresh spinach, pine nuts, fresh mushrooms and grape tomatoes. This apparently is Chef Tedescos signature dish and is worthy of a hearty recommendation. The chicken parmesan is a chicken breast, smothered in a hearty tomato paste and served on a bed of spaghetti. Our dinners were served with a side salad and garlic toast. The garlic toast was warm and not overloaded with garlic. Readers of this column may know that I have a pet peeve when it comes to timing of the appetizer, salad and main course. The Silician got it right. We had a chance to enjoy the appetizer before the salad and the main course arrived. And another plus was that the dinners were hot not just warm, but hot. Fudgy-wudgy cake was the dessert of choice for the evening. A nice wedge of chocolate cake was served with a thin slice of chocolate shoved into the top, and chocolate icing. Drizzled over all that chocolate was chocolate sauce. Enjoy the Italian renaissance in Bowling Green at The Sicilian we did. The reviewer is employed at the Daily News. He/she pays for his/her meals and his/her gym fees to maintain his/her figure. New restaurants are given an eight-week grace period before being reviewed. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235.