Restaurant review:Iron Skillet is soon to bea classic
Published 12:00 am Thursday, February 6, 2003
Iron Skillet
Is it possible for a new restaurant to be a classic? You decide. Theres a new fine dining restaurant in Bowling Green that opened in late September, but it has a name and history some longtime residents may remember. The Iron Skillet is a renaissance of the Iron Skillet restaurants that operated from 1972-1983. The latest Iron Skillet restaurant is in a brand-new building located between the Ramada Inn and Greenwood High School. Therefore, if you dont remember the original Iron Skillet, and see a menu item referred to as a classic, youll know why. The Iron Skillet is big on food presentation, and they did a fine job the evening we ate there. Two appetizers caught our eye and we later learned theyre considered classic Iron Skillet dishes. The Shrimp Tempura was two-bite sized shrimp done in a light and flavorful batter, deep fried and served with fresh cocktail sauce. The other appetizer that we enjoyed sharing was Oysters Rockefeller. This dish originated at Antoines Restaurant in New Orleans, and because of the rich ingredients, was named after one of the richest men of the time. Baked oysters are served on the half shell topped with spinach, onion and butter. Lemon is served on the side. Antoines would be proud. For dinner we chose the grouper and rack of lamb. Each came with a choice of onion soup or house salad; we both chose the onion soup because its one of our favorites. We werent disappointed. The Iron Skillet onion soup was loaded with mild, sweet onions in a tasty broth and just the right amount of bread and cheese on top. Grouper is a fish from the reefs and rock outcroppings in the tropics and is also a member of the sea bass family. This fish is naturally low in fat. Iron Skillet does its grouper with a crusted parmesan cheese and dill coating, panko style. Panko is Japanese bread crumbs, which are bleached wheat flour, soy bean oil and palm oil, yeast and salt. Along the top of the grouper fillet were capers carefully lined up part of the presentation expected during fine dining. Grouper is a lightly flavored, flaky fish, and the texture was perfect. It was a great fish dinner. Rack of lamb has become an Iron Skillet favorite lately, I was told. Its version is French style, stuffed with basil pesto and rosemary demi-glas (a combination of beef stock and red wine). This was served on a bed of rice pilaf. It was pretty to look at and delicious to eat. The crme brulee dessert was excellent. Iron Skillet uses real vanilla bean oil and you can taste the difference. I know its not fashionable to eat dessert, but this is a dont miss treat. Dont let peer pressure or the latest magazine article prevent you from ordering this dessert. The date and banana bread pudding is also very good. It was a delectable island of flavor surrounded by rum sauce with soft caramel swirls. The Iron Skillet is well on its way to establishing itself again as one of the classic restaurants in Bowling Green. The reviewer is employed at the Daily News. He/she pays for his/her meals and his/her gym fees to maintain his/her figure. New restaurants are given an eight-week grace period before being reviewed. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235.